Ho – City of Clouds

The foyer of Accra Airport is cramped and very light on facilities, but I’m stuck here…

Kpalimé – City of Unkempt Promise

When I was plotting this trip to West Africa, I’ll confess that very little in my…

Lomé – City of Disappointment

I have to say, I really haven’t been impressed by Lomé. In principle it should be…

SW Benin – Cities of Relaxation

So, there I am in a beachfront reggae bar in Grand Popo on a sunny Sunday…

Cotonou – City of Zem (restons Zem …)

Ah, the ‘Zem’. A wasp-like creature, present across much of West Africa, but Cotonou seems to…

Ouidah – City of Weariness

I’m not sure whether it was travel-weariness, people-weariness, or just that feeling I sometimes have when…

Porto-Novo – city of the odd museum

As capital cities go, Porto-Novo must rank as one of the world’s least memorable or significant.…

Abomey – City of Death

Ah, Abomey. A well-known and much-feared name in historical West Africa, so much so that both…

Natitingou – City of Mild Masochism

A new country; same red-stone roads, same ‘flexible’ take on vehicle capacity, same food, same burning…

Fada N’Gourma – City Stopover with a Stone Lion

The entry for Fada N’Gourma in my guidebook was a couple of paragraphs. Admittedly this was…